Wireless DC

Wireless DC Remote for 220V or 110V Collectors

Let's face it.....Most everyone could benefit by using a wireless remote control for their dust collector. I made mine for around $65.00. I did use what I had on hand as far as wire and plugs go, but the rest I had to purchase. Here are the pictures and the details of how I made my own DC Wireless Remote. This is all about how I build a wireless remote control for my 220V DC system. You can use a LOT of the information provided here to build one for your 110V DC system as well.

WARNING!!!!
The usual disclaimers are held strongly in place here and you may NOT hold me responsible for any injuries, damages or death by following the instructions on the web site. I am an experienced X-electrician and I do have an idea of what I was doing for my electrical work and installation. Use this as you will and make sure all electrical power is OFF before you begin working on this little project!!

OK.....now that all the warnings and legal mumbo-jumbo is out of the way.....let's get to making a wireless remote for the hobbyist dust collector.

I will cover what you will need in each phase of the project. Each item needed will be in italics and in bold in combination, and will look like this when and where necessary.

Step 1:
You will need a Contactor rated for 40 Amps, 2 Pole, and with a 110 volt coil on the contactor. I purchased mine at a local electrical motor repair shop for $20.89 including tax. Any contactor with a 110V coil will work just fine. You can even find them on E-Bay but I bought mine locally as it was cheaper that way. After all, the objective here is to save as much money and end up with a SAFE and WORKING wireless remote for the hobbyist dust collector.

The next item you will need is a metal box with a closing lid so you can secure it from "little hands" from getting where they shouldn't be.
I purchase mine at a local Big Box DIY type store and here is a pic of the lid on the box of the exact one I used:

remote1

I am a big fan of Square-D stuff as I have worked with their stuff for years and it is well made and holds up to extremes.
Now we have the contactor and the metal box and you can just toss the guts inside the Square-D box as you will not be needing any of the inside parts for this project. You know....the plastic stuff with the lugs.

I used ONE of the holes in the back of the box for attaching the contactor and I marked where the other hole to hold the contactor with a permanent marker and drilled a hole and tapped it with a 10 x 32 tap. That way I could use the existing screws that came with the box.

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OK....now with the hole drilled and tapped, we are now ready to mount the contactor to the box. Just use the two screws that came with the box and mount the contactor in place, like this:

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If you look closely at the contactor in the box....you will see on the top and bottom ends of the contactor a pair of male plugs, kinda like you would use in automotive wiring. There is also a pair on each SIDE of the contactor that connects to the 110V coil on the bottom of the contactor. We will get more into the wiring hook ups later. You will need automotive type FEMALE connectors rate for 30 Amps that simply crimp on the wire. (mine were yellow in color) You will need a good set of pliers or a crimping tool. I opted for the crimping tool as it made a neater crimp without tearing the outer plastic sleeve on the female connectors.

Now....let's take a look at the 110V wiring hookup.

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I used a piece of outdoors type 12-2 w/grnd extension cord for added protection of the wiring outside the box. You will see that I drilled a hole in the side of the box and inserted a 3/8" ID grommet to protect where the wire entered the box.
Now you can see the Female Connectors that I crimped on the black and white wires and hooked them up to the 110V coil. Simply connect them to the coil as you see here. It doesn't matter which side the wires connect as long as you get one wire connection on EACH SIDE of the 110V coil.
So what do you do with the Green Ground Wire? Well, you can screw it to the metal box....but I just left mine hanging loose in the box.

Now....let's get on to some serious work here.
Mount the box near a 110V outlet so you can plug up the Wireless Remote Unit that will eventually provide power and activate the 110V coil which will in turn throw the contactor and apply 220V power to your DC system. Now if you are using a 110V DC, then you can use the rest of the 12-2 w/grnd outdoor extension cord for the rest of the connections. This cord is usually rated for 20 Amps. Have a look here after I got my box mounted to the wall.

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The "yellow" wire you see there is a 10-2 w/grnd Heavy Duty Extension cord. This cord is rated for 30 Amp load and will work just fine for me since I am needing over 20 Amps to power my 5 HP Cyclone DC System. I got my Cyclone and Blower KITS from www.dusteliminator.com (when they were in business) and YES you can build your own and YES you can build your own blower.
The yellow wire coming in the bottom of the contactor box is held in place with a 3/4" Romex connector with nut. This wire is the incoming power to the contactor, normally referred to as the LINE. I left plenty of wire so I could stip is all back to the connector and have some extra in the box in case any wiring ever got burned or the building ever got hit by lightening and burned the wire at the contactor. This way I would have a greater chance of having good wire to reconnect to the contactor or to a new contactor, if and when needed.

In this next pic, you will see where I made the connection of the LINE side to the contactor in the box as well as the conduit and wire from a junction box to the contactor box (LOAD).

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I needed a junction box so I could use the existing solid core wire already hooked up to my DC blower unit and then use the STRANDED wire to hookup to the contactor as the solid core wire can NOT be crimped well enough to hold a good connection and would eventually vibrate out of the connectors. The STRANDED wire allows for a good secure crimp and will not vibrate out of the crimped on connector. The blue pipe you see there is some Flexible Conduit that you can get from your local Big Box store and you will also need 2 each of the 1/2" male adapters with nuts to connect the flex conduit to the junction box AND the contactor box. I then used some Stranded #10 wire, red, black, and green to connect from the DC Blower junction box to the contactor box and eventually to the LOAD side of the contactor hook up.

OK, let's keep moving on here and finish the puppy up.
In this pic you can see the connections I made in the contactor box.


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Here is where I crimped on the rest of the Female Connector to the LOAD side wires (red and black) and connected them to the other side of the contactor. Yes....I left plenty of wire there too....just in case.....I then simply stripped and wire nutted the Green ground wires of the 220V lines together so to provide an unbroken ground between the Load and Line wiring. The junction box, out of view here, I simply wire nutted the black to black, red to red and green to green and put a dust proof cover on the junction box.
The little red rubber pad with a screw through it on the left side of the pic is a rubber pad I am using to isolate the wireless remote receiver from vibration. After all this and I have YET to mention what I used for a Wireless Remote. I ordered a HW1190 Outdoor Light Control - Single Channel from www.dimango.com....the cost of the unit was $29.80 including shipping and is rated for outdoor use and appears to be fairly dust proof as well.
Now...you don't HAVE to use this unit...it was just my choice. You can use a wireless remote like the X10 or a wireless remote that you can get at the local Big Box Store and any one of your liking. I just wanted one that was fairly dust proof, heavy duty and had a remote transmitter that is like a key ring type transmitter, like the one for your car. The HW1190 comes with the receiver unit and the Key Chain type transmitter.

Now....let's put the plug on the end of the 110V wire coming from the 110V contactor coil so it can be plugged into the Wireless Remote Remote Receiver Unit and the plug on the end of the 220V cord that supplies the 220V or 110V power to the LINE side of the contactor. Now that that is done.....let's plug them up, install the wireless remote receiver and hook it all up. Now that is done, let's take a look at the final installation pic.

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Don't forget to install and secure with the provided screw the cover plate on the INSIDE of the Square-D box and cover the knocked out hole of the cover plate with some good tape of your choosing. Close the lid on the box, put the remote transmitter on the top of the box and stand back and admire your work!!!

Now.....turn on the power at your breaker box and grab that transmitter....NOT YET......Don't push the button yet...!!!!!!

Step back at a SAFE distance from your wiring wonder and with JUST the power applied to the 110V and the 220V circuits, ensure that you aren't tripping any breakers at this time. Once that is solid and stable......and it should be.....Press the Button on the transmitter and watch your new wireless remote and DC system come to LIFE...!!!!!! Let it run for a minute and then turn it off. Double check everything and smell for any possible electrical burning smell.....NONE....Good...!!!! You now have a successful installation and your woodworking hobby will begin to advance from here. Now.....get that system ducted and get you a Dust Eliminator Cyclone System and you will wonder how you EVER got along without such a wonderful Dust Collection System.!!!! I hope this has helped and has taken the mystery out of making your own Wireless Remote Control for your DC system.

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